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Puppy Pictures
March 11th, 2012Recognizing, preventing, and handling dog aggression.
March 11th, 2012In the wild aggression came in very handy, dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves,and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm. It is hard to counteract the power of instinct, but not impossible! There is a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head, and even if prevention hasn’t been possible there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
The two most common types of dog aggression are aggression towards strangers, and aggression towards family members. You may be wondering what the difference is aggression is aggression, but these two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
Aggression towards strangers. It is incredibly easy to tell when a dog is nervy around strange people. They are jumpy and on the alert, either they will not still and are constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or they are very still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people, they are unknown to your dog. A dog relies on its owner to socialise them, by introducing new places, people etc. So how can they realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing in fact, it’s pretty hard to stress just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. When you socialize your dog, you’re letting them learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him “its OK” he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. The more types of people and animals your dog meets as a puppy the more as ease they will be with strangers.
Aggression towards family members. There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family. He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you) this is known as resource guarding, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his food or toy’s to himself. The dog quite simply is not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you. Signs of this are snarling at you if you approach him while he is eating, or giving you the eye if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value. It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured hierarchy. To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively because dominance and aggression are the right of a higher ranked member of the pack.
Both these problems and many more can be corrected with the proper training, for more information CLICK HERE
Puppy Training Biting-Secrets To Training
December 2nd, 2009
Stop your Dog’s Behaviour Problems!
Puppy Training Biting is a common problem, secrets to dog training is a very detailed look at how to correct and prevent common behaviour problems. As the owner of a troublesome puppy myself, I’ve spent a fair amount of time searching for a reliable resources on this topic, and I have to say that the level of knowledge and detail contained within the pages of this book is excellent. Written by a seasoned dog trainer, you can relax in the knowledge that all the tips and advice included are tried and true, and come from Stevens’ real-life experiences as a professional dog trainer. There is also a straight-talking, easy to follow 30-minute downloadable video which provides real-life examples of doggy bad behaviour along with solutions and remedies to change them.
What’s covered?
There’s a pretty impressive range of information packed into this guide. It’s not just the problem behaviours that are covered: the book starts off with new-owner advice (how to choose a puppy/dog, the best places to get one from, breed information, puppy/dog-proofing your home, the first vet visit, housetraining, etc) and then moves on to the more advanced stuff: behavioural problems (such as aggression, dominance, chewing, digging, excessive barking, separation anxiety, to name a few), intermediate-level obedience commands, health-related dog problems (allergies, cat/dog coexistence, fleas, heatstroke, and so on), and advanced commands and tricks.
The 30-minute downloadable video gives a great insight into a dog’s quest to be the alpha dog and how you can prevent this. Its quick steps to stop bad behaviours such as housebreaking right through to leash pulling are so simple you can start trying them out on your dog straight away.
In addition to the contents listed above, there’s also a pretty impressive section on dog whispering, which – in case you haven’t heard of it already – is a method of dog training based on a philosophy of clear communication and mutual respect. It’s been popularized in recent years by Cesar Millan (“The Dog Whisperer”), and is becoming increasingly well-known as an alternative and humane method for disciplining and training your dog. Secrets to Dog Training has dedicated an entire section to dog whispering: I was amazed at how effective this technique is. Highly recommended!
Puppy Training Fear Biting
November 24th, 2009
Fear biting is not to be confused with dominance aggression, which is a sign of personality problems. A fear biter isn’t necessarily a fierce puppy, they are usually just scared. Fear biting happens because its the only way the puppy can express their extreme fear or panic, and its only way to let its owner know that they are not happy. Almost all cases of fear biting are actually caused by well-meaning, but ill-advised, humans. They see what’s clearly a scared puppy, and intending to either comfort the puppy or to show them that there’s nothing to be afraid of they approach too close, and push an already-anxious puppy over the edge. Puppies cannot tell us they need some space or want to be alone, all they can do is use body language. Its easy to see the signs when you know what to look for. The warning signs fear biters are submissive dogs. When faced with a new situation or unfamiliar people, they do not react with the customary effortless confidence of a well-socialized, well adjusted puppy instead, they become nervy and on edge. A scared puppy, when faced with the unfamiliar, will assume a distinctively submissive posture, and will display several marked behaviors. The more common of these are listed below. Posture – Tail tucked (or, if docked, the back legs will crouch down and the haunches will ‘tuck’) – Hunched, lowered back – Ears flat against the head – Elbows bent in a slight crouch Behaviors Excessive panting (hyperventilating) Yawning (an attempt to reduce tension) Avoidance of eye contact In extreme cases, a puppy may also urinate or defecate out of fear .
What makes some puppies into fear-biters? All puppies undergo what’s called a fear-imprint stage when they’re about eight weeks old, and another one at about fourteen weeks. During this period of a dog’s formative puppy-hood, they are significantly more prone to spookiness, being excessively startled by new experiences and situations. If a puppy has a scare during this time which isn’t properly dealt with by the owner they may develop a life long phobia towards that object/person. Some dogs are also just highly-strung and more prone to anxiety because of their breeding. Certain breeds typically, the more intelligent ones, and the ones emotionally dependent on close, regular interaction with humans have proven themselves more likely to develop phobias and excessive shyness than other, more emotionally stable breeds. A few of these anxious breeds include Weimaraners, Great Danes, Border Collies and maltese puppies .
How to cope with fear-biting. First of all, make sure your own attitude to the problem is realistic. While the behavior of a fearful puppy can often be significantly corrected by careful training and acclimatization, on other occasions, despite your best efforts a puppy will remain fearful to the end of his days. You cannot force your puppy to overcome its fear, it requires patience, persistence, and consistency. Rough treatment, anger, frustration, shouting only worsens the problem. Because it increases the puppies anxiety levels instead of decreasing them making the puppy more nervous and insecure.
Puppy Training, Biting/Destructive Chewing
November 24th, 2009
The three main reasons why puppies chew: Most puppies have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding.
Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely puppy with an outlet for their emotions. To an anxious puppy, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.
Underexercised puppies often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.
The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, by its very nature all chewing is destructive. Your puppy has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything they start to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.
Puppy Training, Biting/Destructive Chewing
puppies are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff, you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.
Your first step should be to puppy-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved puppy in the world, there’s still no reason to test their self-control, after all puppies explore the world with their mouths. puppy- proofing means moving anything you dont want to end up in their mouths out of their reach. Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small tasty appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls. Prevent them from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times the puppy manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance, the more readily they will target those items in future. Don’t offer your puppy cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with, you can’t possibly expect them to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one they got in their mouth that you gave them five minutes ago. Provide lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. Remember, most puppies need to chew, if its an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), their needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give them two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for them. Spend lots of time in active supervision, it might be easier for you to just keep your puppy penned up in their crate, run, or the yard but that’s boring and horrible for them, and hardly much fun for you either. When you catch your puppy chewing something inappropriate, interrupt them by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand them a tasty and puppy-appropriate alternative. Remember to give your puppy time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help them learn faster and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until they have got the hang of the chewing rules!
Puppy Training, Biting.
November 24th, 2009
Puppy Training Not To Bite
The playful biting and mouthing of your hands and clothes by your puppy, is particularly common, but can also occur in older dogs that have not had puppy training not to bite. Puppies biting and puppy nipping is a natural process , it is their way of exploring the world around them. It is playful and exploritory not a form of true aggression, its their way of communicating with their new world. From birth puppies use their mouths to explore their world, their mother their siblings your furniture your fingers. Their playful biting and nibling drives us mad but its their way of learning and exploring, its up to us to give them the guidlines. A dog without any concept of bite inhibition is both annoying and dangerous to have around: a harmless play session can rapidly turn into painful ordeal. Puppies aren’t capable of inflicting serious damage. Although their little teeth are razor sharp, their jaws are too weak to do much more than elicit a trickle of blood, but an adult dog can do a great deal more than just scratch the surface, and it makes very little difference to a wounded human that the dog “didn’t mean to do it”! When playing with your puppy or dog, you’ll need to choose the level of mouthing that you’re prepared to accept.
Most young dogs, and some older ones, seem to have an innate need to chew something – anything! – whenever they’re being played with or petted. To keep the focus off your hands, and prevent him from learning what a delightful chew toy your fingers make, supply him with a more appropriate chew: anything with a slight give to it should do the trick. Rawhide bones, pigs’ ears, or squeezy rubber toys all go down a treat. – If he should start snapping for your hands or face while playing, correct him quickly with a sharp, “No!”, or “AH-ah-aaah!” He should stop, startled. As soon as he stops, praise him (you’re praising the stopping, not the original behavior – don’t be confused by their close proximity) and then quickly redirect his attention to an appropriate chew. When his jaws close around it, praise him again and give him a pat. – Never use physical force to correct your dog for inappropriate chewing or mouthing. The cold-shoulder technique is the most effective, and humane, manner of conveying your displeasure to your dog. He wants to please you: he just has to figure out how to do so. He has a much better chance of doing so if you refrain from corporal punishment and give him 30 seconds of isolation instead. If your dog’s getting really revved up and is making repeated attempts to nip you, despite cold-shouldering him, he might need to cool down a bit. In this case, the ‘time out’ method is appropriate: take him to his crate, or to a small room by himself, and leave him there for five minutes to chill out a bit. When it’s time to bring him back into the heart of the household, you can start playing again – just try to tone it down a notch or two until you’re sure he can tolerate the play without further nipping. For a dog that needs little encouragement to become overexcited and mouthy, choose non-contact play whenever feasible. Frisbee and fetch are great choices; even tug-of-war, provided your dog knows a reliable ‘drop it’ command, is suitable. Avoid rough play and full-on wrestling at all costs: these games encourage nipping, but also call a dog’s instinctive aggression into the mix, which is something to be avoided. Keep games friendly and low-key instead.
